Thursday, December 1, 2011

Recipe Wednesday: Good Samaritan Soup

(No Samaritans were harmed in the making of this soup.)

I have a friend who is, among other things, a single mom of two teenage daughters.  She also has some food allergies.  When her kids are sick, she makes soup.  Then she got sick, with one of those awful seasonal viral bugs that lays everyone low, and lamented to her (less-than-grateful-acting) daughters, "And I don't even have anyone to make me soup!"

I didn't know she said this, but I did know she was sick, and in one of those lovely moments of synchronicity, I texted her and said, "I just made some non-allergenic soup.  Would you like me to bring you some?"

She said yes.  I forgot to warn her I had spiked it with a liberal amount of garlic.  She must not have minded, because once she recovered, she asked me for the recipe.  A few weeks later, she Good-Samaritaned me when my daughters and I were all sick.

2 quarts broth (I used a mixture of homemade post-Thanksgiving turkey and purchased organic chicken)
Canola oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
4-6 stalks of celery, thinly sliced
2-3 small turnips, julienned
2-3 bay leaves
½ lb waxy potatoes, peeled and diced
1 c. frozen peas
2-3 small (or 1 large) sweet potatoes, quartered and sliced ¼” thick
1 red or yellow bell pepper, cut into slivers
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and sliced
¼ c. tomato juice, or canned tomatoes in juice, or paste thinned to a juicy consistency
½ lb. fresh baby spinach and/or arugula, cut into ribbons
2-4 cloves fresh garlic, crushed
Fresh parsley, minced
Olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Lemon juice and/or sugar to taste

In a large saucepan, sauté the onions, celery, turnips, and bay leaves in a little canola oil until the onions are translucent.  Pour in the broth and add the potatoes.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a brisk simmer.  Skim off any foam that forms.  After about 10 minutes, add thesweet potatoes, increasing the heat if necessary to bring soup back to a simmer.  In another 5 minutes or so, add the peas.  Keep the soup simmering, but below a boil.  After another 5 minutes or so of simmering, add the peppers.  Simmer until the peppers are tender (double-check to make sure everything else is tender, too), then add the scallions and tomatoes.  Simmer for another minute or two, then add the greens, garlic, and parsley.  Cook just until the greens have wilted (arugula will take a little longer than spinach, which wilts almost instantly), then add the olive oil, salt, and pepper to taste.  Taste the broth, and correct the seasoning as needed—a splash of lemon juice or a tablespoon of sugar can do wonders to a broth that is a little flat.

Note: It’s misleading to even write this as if it were a recipe.  The truth is, I used the broth and all the vegetables I had on hand that I thought would complement each other (honestly, I only used the sweet potatoes because I was out of carrots.  The turnips were a wild card.).  The first trick to this soup is to cut everything in small pieces, so that each spoonful has a little of this and a little of that, and no one item dominates.  The second—and slightly trickier—trick is to time the addition of each item so that when the soup is done, every vegetable is cooked through, but none is over-cooked.  Potatoes and carrots (if you had some) will take the longest, then celery and onion (but we sauté them first to intensify the flavor, plus they are fairly impervious to turning mushy).  Sweet potatoes will cook surprising quickly, and bell peppers should never be over-cooked because they become bitter (or perhaps I am biased after a childhood spent eating over-cooked stuffed peppers).  The greens should only be wilted, and I add the garlic at the very end to retain the therapeutic benefits (admittedly, I love that garlicky punch), but if you’re cooking for someone with more delicate sensibilities, add the garlic earlier and let some of the “punch” peter out.

You could also add some cooked chicken breast, or a starch like rice, or a little tofu.  The flavors, like so many soups, improve with a day or two of resting in the refrigerator.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Book Shelf: The Curious World of Bugs

Have you ever seen a bug and wondered what it was?  The go-to resource in such a situation is the website What's That Bug, run by "The Bugman," Daniel Marlos.  And The Bugman now has a book out:
(Don't click to look inside.  That's not an option.)

It's a perfect resource for anyone interested in bugs, or even just a little curious about the natural world around them.  I bought a copy for my nine-year old budding entomologist: happy homeschooling!

Marlos opens the book by musing, "When I started working on the idea to write a curious miscellany of wacky, wonderful, and intriguing facts about bugs that I’ve collected during my years of research, I knew I had a cast of over 1 million characters worldwide, including 86,346 recorded insects in the United States and Canada alone. Each one had a story I could tell. There were more species than the number of words I needed to write the book. How was I going to whittle down the cast to just include the stars?"

He starts with the 10 most often-requested bugs from the website, and branches out from there, offering interesting facts about each species accompanied with simple but clear line-drawings.  Marlos's passion for his subject shines; his voice is at once expert and approachable.  The book is currently available on for a mere $12.32, which makes it a complete steal even if your only interest is in learning just enough to impress that cute entomologist you always see at Starbuck's.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

And You May Ask Yourself: How Did I Get Here?

I came to Southern California like a bride to an arranged marriage, full of misgivings despite the assurances of my friends and relations that this was a good move.  Ultimately, the demands of my husband’s job meant that we were moving regardless of my desire to stay firmly rooted in Connecticut, so I tried to be optimistic and overlook the obvious red flags: the scarcity of water and clean air, the prevalence of earthquakes and wildfires, and the three varieties of flora and fauna: prickly, venomous, and golf course.
Whenever I relocate one of my first orders of business is to find the local farmers’ market.  There are a lot of reasons for this: I believe in voting with my dollar.  I believe in being close to my food.  I believe creating food systems both ecologically and economically sustainable in turn creates resilient communities.  I believe that these are among the most fundamental lessons I can teach my children.  I also believe that the people at farmers markets—both vendors and customers—are some of the best people an area has to offer.  Salt of the earth!  Authentic! Unpretentious!  How many jerks care about kale?
It was late December in the Temecula Valley.  Sunny and 70.  The farmers market takes up half a city block, scores of parti-colored EZ-ups arranged cheek-to-jowl.  Did I mention we moved here from New England?  Where the farmers market (comprising 12 farmers, one orchardist, one florist, and a small band of elderly Methodist women selling baked goods) is lucky to make it all the way through October without a Nor’easter sending EZ-ups sailing ass-end-over-tin-cups across the town green?  My daughters clung to me, agog at the hedgerows of blooming rosemary and lavender, the buckets of cut tuberose and freesia, the kettlecorn vendors—plural!, the jams and jellies and honey and just-squeezed lemonade, all of it fresh and bright and out-of-doors in the week after Christmas!  The air was electric, which my husband tolerated with the ennui of someone who would rather be shopping at Safeway.
Hundreds of people pulsed like so many sticky platelets through the arteries of the market, forming clogs at every interesting disruption.  People of every age and race, a steady babble of languages, a constant steam of movement.  We stepped into the swirling vortex and were jostled past the tamales cart, swept by the face-painting clown, and carried through the midway lined with knock-off purses, beaded Mexican trinkets, hippie dresses, olivewood bowls, and lavender sachets.  We caught our collective breath in front of the mobile massage station in an eddy caused by a large and beautifully appointed jogging stroller.
Now, in my heyday of early motherhood back in Connecticut, I was known by locals as the “lady with the carriage,” thanks to my bright red double jogging stroller.  I had done my due diligence before purchasing it; I knew jogging strollers.  Yet I had never seen one like this—shocks front and rear, swiveling front wheel, high-denier ripstop nylon cover, redundant breaks, one-hand collapse, safety wrist tether, multiple drink holders, reflectors, clear plastic window through which the pusher could dote upon the pushee—it had every amenity a modern jogging mom could want.  Clearly, it was a high-end model, containing, I could only surmise, a high-end baby.  I glanced at the svelte woman behind the handlebars.  She was deep in conversation with another market shopper, inscrutable behind the glare of the winter sun glinting off her rhinestone-studded sunglasses.  Her velour jogging suit clung provocatively to her well-maintained frame, and she held her latte with confidence and perfectly manicured acrylic tips.
Surely, I thought, she won’t mind if I sneak a peak at her precious little one.  When my eyes adjusted to the stroller’s dim interior (thoughtfully shrouded from the sun by the silken mosquito net), I discovered the ultimate SoCal accessory—a neurotic but nattily dressed Yorkie-Poo.
My head reeled as I recoiled from the stroller and ushered the girls around the corner.  At last we found farmers and produce. There were the usual winter suspects, of course: crucifers and roots, squash and leafy greens.  But also avocados, persimmons, pomegranates, fresh dates, even strawberries.  And winter is the height of citrus season—Navel oranges! Valencia oranges! Cara-cara oranges!  Blood oranges in three varieties! Mandarins! Tangelos!  Sweet limes! Key limes!  Bearss limes! Kaffir limes! To say nothing of grapefruits white, pink, and red; all manner of lemons, pomelos, and the curiously named “cocktail fruit,” an orange-grapefruit hybrid. 
Of course, none of this bounty is even remotely native to the area—southern California has one native citrus, bushrue (Cneoridium dumosum, which ethnobotanical literature describes as allergenic and inedible[i]).  Then there’s the “coyote melon,” a wild gourd which seems to have made marginal food (it bears the appetizing species name foetidissima—not just fetid, but superlatively so) but excellent containers.  The principle native diet was built on acorn porridge supplemented by rodents, birds, seeds, insects, and the region’s scanty production of small, generally acidic fruit.  The beauty I see at the farmers market is unnatural—inspired by the Mediterranean climate, cultivated on the skin-deep layer of impoverished alluvial topsoil, and plumped with imported water.
I don’t care.  I am seduced.  As author Jeff Taylor noted, as a species we favor general thrift but personal indulgence.  If I feel any guilt about the water we pump in from all points east and north, or the sheets of plastic that veil the hoop houses, or any of the gamut of artificial inputs required to yield this bounty, I bury it under a mountain of December strawberries, and console myself that at least I buy them directly from the growers.  I buy a bag of Valencias and take it home to the bottle of local almond champagne our neighbors welcomed us with.  For the first week, I live on mimosas. 

[i] Though a 1908 book identifies it as used by the native Luiseño people for medicinal purposes: